Talking About Me Living Age 23.

Birthdays come and go. It’s just another day on the calendar, but it is the day tied to you. Month, date, and the year meaning something to only you and those who also know the day is your birthday. I have seen birthdays come and go, some grand in celebration while other modest and honest. My birthday, which just happened to pass, closely follows Halloween so there always is a little ruckus involved. Upon adding one more year of experience under my belt, I typically tend to reflect on the year in the rearview mirror and looks towards an upgraded version of the following year. I am thinker, for better or worse, and can get lost in my mind very easily. Thoughts racing like an F1 car in and out and in loops. Twenty-four was no different, as I looked back on a pretty crazy year.

I started off the year stressed. I am very much a person that accepts fate and tries not to dwell on much, but I welcomed in twenty-three unemployed without any plan of how to escape this ditch I had been stuck in for a month. With funds dwindling and not much on the horizon, it definitely was a darker time. While every bad comes with good, I would not be stuck in this hole for very long. But for the time being, I was constantly thinking about impending finances and also not really knowing what I wanted to do for work. Twenty-three ushered in the real world, as this would be my first complete year sans school. Getting the ball rolling was tough. Ask anyone, looking for a job is not fun. All while having no source of income makes it even more of a troublesome task. You could look for hours, apply a bunch of times, and hear absolutely no communication from the other side. I experienced this often. Luckily, I would land on my feet with a retail job that would help pay the bills while exploring other options.

The year would come to an end in a weird way. I would be out in California for the holidays. I then tried to go out on New Years but the lines were so long I went to bed before twelve. I would wake up in 2019 ready to tackle a new 365 days. 2019 began the way it should: with surf. Terrible waves, but it set a precedent. A new year was a blank canvas in a sense, but the thing that doesn’t get reset is the past and present. The blank slate is the future, and I was still unsure as to what mine was to be. By the end of the month, I had found a job, still worked weekends at catch surf, and had my parents coming out to visit. Things started looking up as we came out of the cold winter months.

After quality time with family and friends, I was back in it. I started to have regimented weeks, and really started to like the grind. Surf, work, gym, eat good. Write a little. Have fun on the weekends. A cycle I was growing fond of. I would get a couple new tattoos to commemorate the start of a career (Side Note: while I mostly say my tattoos have no meaning, every one is tied to a moment in time). Life was good and only getting better. Summer was creeping in and south swells were starting to bump up. Add this in with warm weather and longer days, and you’ve got a recipe for success. This was my first full summer living in Newport, and fully took advantage of living so close to the beach. Biking down to the shore for a little slide or posting up for hours on end just to soak up some sun. Newport is already a crowded zone, and this is the only crux of summer. Crowded lineups, minimal parking, but waves on tap. Going out became more of a chore, and I honestly feel like we pumped the breaks due to this. I was able to hone in on surfing, my health, and work with finite focus. I would cap off the summer with a quick trip home to see family and friends. Then I would arrive back to work and the next week (or maybe it was two weeks away) I was enlisted to go on a three-day work trip to Waco, Texas. Talk about work perks. If you told me I would surf BSR in year twenty-three, I would have questioned you.

By now I think we are in October, my birth month. I knew I had no extravagant plans, so I kind of just ran with a whole birthday month vibe. I had a ton of fun and got to share good times with all my closest friends. October was a little bit of a whirlwind: it can in fast and swirled and twirled on its way out. I would enter twenty-four in a good space. Mindset is everything, and mine is fined tuned. I would say this was my first year where I had such a regimented and structured day to day I got to jump out of the fast lane and put on cruise control. I really do feel as though I learned the most about myself in this year, as I didn’t have homework to dwell on or tests to study for. When work was over, I could be with myself and work on me. Schooling kind of takes that away from you. Also factor in on top of the actual education I was involved in a decent amount of social interactions and also surfed a TON, so free time was abundant but used in those areas. Now, when it’s past 5 I can only do so much, and it tends to revolve around me. Life in the right lane is a good place to be in before merging back into the left.

My birthday comes and goes, as with Halloween, and we immediately get sent into the holidays. Thanksgiving slides in and out, and then we get Christmas, and the ushering of a New Year. I looked at some resolutions, and while some will remain uncheck (like landing a full rotation air) while others have an X in the box. I tend to make more new habits or ideas come to fruition in birth years rather than calendar years, which I have noticed. Twenty-four should be a good one, as I am almost a year deep in a young career and feeling pretty fit. I read more and use technology less. Or at least try my best to. I write, and write, and write. And enjoy it. I listen to new music and dive back in the crates of older music. I will continue to surf, work out, read, write, take photos, post photos, and spend time with great humans. As we age like wine, the life we live just get sweeter.

 

East Meets West: Surfing

I grew up surfing on the East Coast. The birth of my surfing existence is on the beach up the street from Ocean Hut Surf Shop, and would be stuck up that beach until I got a drivers license junior year (NOTE: Sandy was this same year so not only would I not be able to get my driver license on my birthday, I also would not be able to access Lavallette beaches for months after). Once a legal NJ driver, I would being adventuring outside the Lavallette bubble to surf waves like Bayhead, Manasquan, and Jenks (the only wave I will admit to missing when in CA). While my surfing journey was heavily rooted in NJ, I was able to experience a handful of California waves in between trips out west throughout high school. Even though I rarely get to surf it now a days, Rincon point is a wave I know light the back (side) of my hand. I would put in hours at the point when out west for a family trip. When I came out to check out colleges out west I was introduced to Lowers. Maybe when the sand is right and the moons align, these waves can be half mimicked back home. But in my experience, I can count on two hands the amount of times this happens. Surfing on the East Coast and West Coast differ very heavily. And I would learn this after spending a mere Semester at school. Both have their positives and negatives. When I was greener to the West Coast, I would find very little to be missed about surfing in NJ. But perspective is everything, and in the ever-growing sport of surfing, things are changing very quickly. Let’s take the deep dive.

EAST:

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Surfing on the East Coast is much more of a waiting game. You simply cannot surf everyday much like other places. Now I know sometimes even the most wave rich coast can look dismal, and a soft top or log might be needed. But there are plenty of days I can remember between every season where there is LITERALLY no surf. “Lake Atlantic” is a term often coined in regards to how dismal the ocean can look. Now to double down on this, even when there are waves, it often can be in unfavorable conditions or less than ideal conditions. Winds are often way more prevalent on the East Coast, so no matter how early you wake up some days, it is still choppy. I can recall waiting for hours on hours just for a single hour window of favorable winds. This again brings it back to the waiting game. There are some spots that handle certain factors better, but wind tides and swell direction all play a major role in how the fickle beach breaks take shape.

After bitching about all that can be wrong about surfing at home, let’s talk about what’s right. For the most part, when it’s on it’s on. Nothing is quite as satisfying as rocking up to the beach to see perfect A-frame waves with not a soul in the water. With surfing’s growing popularity, this is much less common than it used to be. But plenty of days in the Fall and Spring I could see peaky chest to head high wedges with no one out at my local beach break. The crowd was me, my dad, and who ever else I wanted to invite. Plenty of times it was just my dad and I. Plenty of times it was just me. The solitude of a solo session is something very hard to replicate, and I would say a third of my surfs at home would be sans surfers. It could get a little spooky, but getting first pick of any wave puts that in the back of your head. My local beachie is still super reliable for being empty, but when it’s just not doing its thing I can enter the fray by driving 15 minutes north. My junior and senior year of high school was flooded with sessions in Bayhead and at Jenks, where you could find ledgey barrels a plenty. Anytime I’m home, I try to hone in on a session at Jenks.

WEST:

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Surfing on the West Coast is a lot less of a gamble. Wake up around sunrise and check the cams to cherry pick the best sandbar. Plenty of times I have been at the ocean and checking one spot while the cam for another is open on my phone. This is both a blessing and a curse, but for sure more of a curse. There are very few secrets left out here. Also, where I live can take almost any swell angle. Solid south swell? Spot X. Medium sized west swell? Spot Y. Combo swell and offshores? Spot Z. As far as wave quality, what the West Coast has going for it is the amount of different types of waves you can find within an hour driving on the freeway. Whether you are craving beach break barrels, rippable reef A-frames, or lined up points that offer up 20+ second rides, the options are there. You can truly think about the way you want to surf, and take a short drive to find a wave suitable for that. There is a ton of options, and on top of that before you even leave your house you can watch a camera to weigh out whether the drive is worth it.

With all good comes the bad, and this is referring back to the cameras. Where I live, there are actually more than 10 cameras within the handful of miles radius. There is a ridiculous amount of people out at just about every spot too. It is always more crowded when it is a little smaller, which it often is. A solid swell is needed to really trim the fat of novice surfers. The increasing crowds and inviting beaches just keep getting more and more densely populated. Since there are so many waves, you can escape the crowd if you get crafty enough. But plenty of spots that I used to surf with a light to moderate crowd are now ridiculously jam-packed. The crowds start before you even get in the water, too. If it’s on and passed 7AM, it’s too late. Parking spots can be scarce, and if it is street sweeping you might be walking quite a bit before you enter the ocean. When it get’s crowded, it starts bugging everyone. You see a ton more eggy folks when it’s crowded, and that really can drag the environment way down. Especially if the one being chirped is you or your buddy.

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Both coasts lay in a special place in my heart. I feel as though if I spend too much time in one, I really start to miss the other. Right about now, I would love some less crowded waves. But I know when I am home, and it is flat, I’d love even just a waist high wave to jib around on. Since I live out in CA, I am thankfully there is always a rideable wave and often can be pretty fun. But scoring a swell back home tastes just as if not more sweet.

Sounds in Sequence: Weekend Mix

My weekends have become pretty routine at this point. I am unsure as to whether or not I am happy or sad about this, but it is what it is. Here is the skinny: I can guarantee to wake up one morning hungover. Lately, it’s been both mornings. On Saturdays, I need to rise somewhat early, as I work a shift at the Catch Surf store in Laguna. So if I want to surf or get some sort of exercise before putting in the work, I kind of have to be on it. Fast forward through my shift and I tend to be pretty toasted.

I usually go to catch surf strapped: coffee, kombucha, and a decent packed lunch. This can get me through most of the days, but sometimes I am just smoked. No amount of snacks or coffee can give me the extra edge. Work usually goes by decently quick however, as I am friends with my coworkers and the people that trickle in and out of the store tend to be on the more friendly end of the spectrum. We wrap it up at 7 and typically by 7:15 slapping fives in the lot and peeling away, everyone heading south and me being the lone soldier northbound.

What happens next is a toss up. I’d say my group of friends and I are more on trend of going out Friday rather than Saturday, so if we are limiting it to one night of going out, I can cruise home and play some mellow jams or whatever I am vibing as of late. If it is the other way around and a night on the town is imminent, I usually am thinking if I need to pick up any supplies on the way home as the turnaround time is tight. Even when my morale is the lowest, I know one way to get amping and ease into the mindset of sending rather than sleeping: music.

I had given up using Soundcloud when they started making you listen to not one but TWO ads in between a certain number of plays. While I am a dual citizen of both Spotify and Apple Music (because of Sean Carter), I can’t see myself purchasing Soundcloud Go anytime soon. Not even the commercials about it that bombard me on the rare occasion I open the app can sell me on it. Some time ago, I really enjoyed making playlists for different occasions. Soundcloud has a lot of mixtape songs and unreleased music floating around, so you can find some awesome mixes and even stuff from artists not available on the traditional streaming platforms.

So where is this going? I decided to make a playlists on Soundcloud that mimics one of my Spotify ones. The Spotify playlist is the music I put on at 7:15 on a Saturday night to crank on the drive back home. This Soundcloud playlists would give me the same energy and excitement. So whether you are in my case and are leaving work or somewhere low on energy, or the energy is already flowing and you want to amplify it, hit play and let it run. I even added a cool photo of 1800 tequila as the main image and sequenced the songs in a nice order, so shuffle is not necessary. Press play!

New phone, old me

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This is not my hand ^ but is what my phone looks like.

So I got a new phone. It is super shiny. It is actually a light purple rather than my usual black accessory. While it does have a ton of pretty neat features and I could probably write a whole passage purely about its glimmer, this one is going a different way. You see, there was nothing wrong with my old phone as far as function. It could make calls, send texts, and connect to the internet. However, there was one feature that was absolutely blown: the camera. Everyone knows the iPhones boast huge claims about camera quality, and it’s true. Having an iPhone in your pocket is just a step down from a full blown camera. Everyone is now a pocket photographer.

I was getting by either by flipping my phone around and taking pictures/video with the selfie camera (which sucked and has way worse quality) or I just ditched documenting it all together. I kind of only used the selfie camera to capture if it was something I don’t see as often, like a concert or something that is only going to be there for a moment’s time. Otherwise I would write it off. Funnily enough, I would often see certain things and think to myself, “Damn, I wish I could send that to X Y Z” or something along the lines of that. I would write it off and just go on with my day.

Fast forward to my shiny new phone with two cameras. I have a beautiful way to capture things that pass by, but I am also still stuck in the mindset of my camera being broken. I have even thought that I should snap this or that to someone, and still write it off since I was sans camera. A moment later I would remember I could actually take a crispy photo and share it with whomever. But do I need to?

Occasionally, I would backtrack and document the insta story, snapchat, or text photo because I found it appropriate. However, I definitely have held back many times just because why. Why do I need to share this with someone? If it was not enough to make me take it with the selfie cam, I believed I could pass on it. It is an interesting dilemma, do I jump back into over documentation like a millennial or keep my retracted documentation and keep it more low key. I hope to land somewhere in the middle. It was kind of cool going under the radar, but that just means I was spamming cam rewinds.

It is crazy to think we have these high-powered devices in our pockets, and they can be used for such good reasons and also for such shit reasons. Sending a photo to a friend to stoke them out or remind them that you are thinking of them is awesome. Posting something or sending a snap roasting someone, however, is lame. But we are all guilty of it, no one is completely pure of the posting plague. Let’s use our phones for good. Let’s take some great photos and post things to bring people up rather take them down. Quality over quantity.

Block Brainstorming

You maybe have noticed a recent trend in my ~weekly~ writings. Most probably have not, as I doubt people are really chomping at the bit for some weekly words of wisdom from this guy. But I’ve been slacking. Kind of. I have recently had a handful of weekends where I either am doing so much and forget to carve out a piece or just lazy and uninspired for some writing. This is one of those weeks. As I don’t really see it as a chink in the armor, I do like to keep it consistent just for myself and also that it keeps the droughts from writing minimal.

I usually have ideas, but sometimes just don’t feel like setting aside the time to put the pen to paper, or in this case, fingers to the keyboard. But I think I may have found something that can help me with this dilemma. The theme for these two post are purchase I’ve made in October (my birthday month, so I had to splurge a little). The post above this one will be about my recent acquisition of the iPhone 11, making me able to take photos again. It will be somewhat introspective, as I will not be bragging about the 2 cameras or sick purple color mine came in. This second purchase is a little thing I saw in a GQ 10 essentials with Adam Devine. Don’t get me wrong, I love workaholics, but I wouldn’t say the actors hold too much influence over me.

He explained the item and I just knew I had to have it. Watch the clip HERE and see if you can guess it.

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There she is, in all her glory. Writers block worst enemy, The Writers Block. While it isn’t the same as the one in the video, it serves the same purpose. This trusty little brick of pages is going to hopefully get the gears turning over the weekend and even get me writing some stuff that might not get posted. There isn’t much to it, so rather than elaborately explain it more or go over it’s high-tech features, I figured I’d crack it open to a random page and let it rip. It will be slightly abbreviated, but just enough to get the point across. I also am actually going to pick whatever page it opens to. No re-dos. Here we go (check my Instagram  for the proof):

Roger: Hey, so I never use this dating app, but I just happen to open it up to an absolute DIME and had to swipe right. I hope she swipes right back.

Stephanie: Hahah very funny! Nice to meet you too.

Roger: Still no response :/. Might have to delete the app.

Stephanie: Not yet! How about you delete it after our first date.

Roger: Oh yeah? Where is the date going down?

Stephanie: My house 😉

Roger: I see you are a straight shooter.

Stephanie: It’s the name of the restaurant! But I see someone’s head is in the gutter.

Roger: Hahaah I am aware. So seven o’clock this Thursday?

Stephanie: Sounds good to me! Margaritas?

Roger: Keeeeeeeeeeeen.

So that was that. I didn’t feel like writing a long drawn out conversation, as I feel this got the point across. I also feel like a dating app was the best way to convey the ideas of the page from the writers block. So that is that. Whenever I have no inspo or am just groggy, I can sharpen the pencil with this nifty little book. It’s on!