Category: Surfing

QUICK CLIPS: Five <5 Minute Surf Clips to Froth Over (Throwbacks)

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Sometimes the waves look terrible. But sometimes you also could just be itching so hard to surf, you just need that little extra nudge to get out there and tackle the high tide or wind chop. There are a couple surefire ways to speed up the process. One of the easiest? Slam a cup of coffee and get your froth on. Sometimes you might have already had a cup or two and don’t want to push it. Sometimes all it takes is the buddy system. Phoning a friend and hoping they can also look past the meager conditions or less than favorable factors. Once there is someone with you, they can either bath in the misery of bad surf with you or share in the score. Because you need someone else to back you up that the session was fun when the cams are blue.

If you are out of joe and all your friends are occupied or MIA, then there is only one last hope to get your energy levels up and take a dip. This is the surf clip. A surefire way to get you off your ass and in boardies or a wetty. Sometimes, it is matching a clip to the waves you are going to surf. Others, it is seeing your favorite surfer blitz waves to a classic tune. The frothiest of them all however is the vintage clips you grew up on. Seeing the nostalgia and also ripping from the past makes itch to surf to make the inner kid in you happy. While it is easy to get sucked into a time warp of vintage sessions, I like to keep it quick and get out of there after 1 or 2 clips. Here are 5 vintage videos to get the gears in motion. I will describe why I like them in a single sentence.

Taj Burrow in Stranger than Fiction = Future forward style over a song from Metric in pristine pumping surf, opening with a crazy alley oop lien grab.
Bobby Martinez in Mixtape = A fellow goofy foot blitzing sections and blasting airs to hip-hop.
Andy Irons in Campaign 2 = Charging backhand turns as hard as your backhand tubes, to a song everyone knows was in your section.
Dane Reynolds in Stranger Than Fiction = Absolutely ripping in mostly beach break conditions, making it relatable and not relatable at the same time.
Parko from Free as a Dog = Scoring offshore tubes with just your mates to a song you might have been dancing to at the local watering hole the night before the score.
 Bonus: Andy Irons in Campaign = Because every Andy video section is gold.

Texas 1st Timers

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Wednesday afternoon through Friday afternoon, I found myself in a completely foreign state in both a literal and figurative sense. The literal? I was spending my first visit to Texas. After hearing so much about it and having plenty of pals that hail from the Lone Star state, I was eager to see what the deal fully was. I was lucky to travel here for work, but more on that later. We would arrive and just from the airport drive alone, it was pretty much everything I had imagined. It loosely reminded me of a town close to home, but an even more to the extreme of rural. Tons of flat land, excruciating heat, and strange smells were aplenty.

We would be staying in Austin, in two super luxe houses that always had the AC cranking. From the grocery stores to the streets, there were a large amount of characters very different than our group of ~10 Californians. Wednesday night I reached Texas nirvana, indulging in by far the best BBQ food I’ve ever eaten. We arrived to Terry Blacks BBQ in Austin and hit dinner line ASAP, as all of us hadn’t eaten much since our 7 o clock LAX flight. The only thing holding our stomachs over was Chick-fil-a nuggets and waffle fries. I would select some green beans and corn bread, for my sides, along with a whole avocado showing my true inner Californian. When we got the the main meats, I had to have a sample platter. I was dead set on brisket, and got some jalapeno cheese sausage and a pork ribs to switch it up. The brisket required no knife, and was so juicy and smooth. I hadn’t ever tasted meat like that.

Fast forward after some Chappelle stand up post BBQ pig out, and we find the sun barely rising over the horizon as we drove in our sprinter van. We were making the commute from the city of Austin to the rural town of Waco, which happened to house one of the latest and greatest wave pools in America. To say I was stoked would be an understatement. The commute was pretty desolate and lacked any real beauty aside from a blood orange sunrise. We did happen to stop at this place Buc-ees, which had every weird nic-nac, texas gear (I think they even sold guns?), and some gas station breakfast burritos plus coffee. The coffee was so bad we chucked 5 full cups into the garbage and drove through the nearest Starbucks. In a mere 45 minutes we would arrive at our destination.

It’s a little tough to put words to what was going on all Thursday. This is where the figurative foreign state of mind comes into play mentioned earlier. Never would I think of going on a trip to Texas to surf, and not only surf but also surf fun waves with a full BYOB set up in piss warm water and one hundred degree weather. What the hell? We would have the pool from eight to eight, and had some stoked surf shop workers who sold Hurley product all summer to reap the benefits of this trip. Everyone had a smile on his or her face. From the beginner surfers learning their way around the waves, to Yadin Nichol and Brett Simpson tearing the place to bits. When it was all said and done, no one really had any words left to describe the day. If anyone wasn’t stoked, it was on him or her. I surfed through lunchtime and survived off half of a Bucceys breakfast burrito and some fruit and trail mix. And I wouldn’t want it any other way. No bad days out here in Waco. I hope to return soon.

While we didn’t get to really see Austin, I was unbothered. We had both Wednesday and Thursday night to explore the town and nightlife, but neither night materialized. Wednesday we had all woken up at 4AM and were beyond cooked after running errands all day. Thursday, after again having an early morning and at least 5 hours of surfing under our belts, no one had the excess energy to burn. Don’t worry, plenty of Lone Stars, Modelos, and White Claws were crushed from sun up to sun down. And then some. While I’ve heard so many good things about the Austin nightlife and the scene in the city of Music, I will have to wait until next time. If there is one (which I think there will be).

Friday we would wrap up the trip. After checking out of both places of stay and having a mellow morning with coffees and classic breaky foods, we would make our way to the airport. Austin has a really nice airport, complete with nice water refill stations, decent food and coffees, and even bathrooms strictly for pups. I walked past those and was kind of tripping. Texas now has a strange place in my heart after this trip. To think within 12 hours I went from eating some of the country’s best-prepared BBQ to getting tubes and a perfect punt section in the middle of nowhere. Talk about a trip. Thanks Terry Blacks, BSR, and Hurley for a couple fun days in the office.

Surfing but not in the ocean?

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(This is an old piece from my minor in writing and rhetoric at Chapman University. Since most of my writing is pretty loose on here, I figured it would be cool to post something that had more structure. I wish I could find the prompt, alas I cannot. I also could not find the grade.)

With the 2019 Freshwater Pro approaching, I thought this piece was fitting.

Surfing to me is one of the things that can get you closest to mother nature. Already surfing at a base level, you feel very one with nature. As you excel and gain more and more confidence when standing on a surfboard, the experience turns up a notch and becomes a whole new beast. The barrel (when the wave covers you up and then you get spit out of the tunnel of water that was just around you) is the apex of this feeling. Literally the only thing around you is nature. It is an experience that is tough to explain, because words don’t do it justice. What happens when nature is replaced? Technology these days has been constantly making nature substitutes, and one recently was made that could totally change surfing.

When I was growing up as a young surfer, something like this was fairy tale talk. Never had anyone given a thought to the perfect wave, let alone it being a manmade one. Wave pools starting gaining popularity when I was in high school, so the magnitude they are being created at today is a fairly recent feat. Sure, there have been plenty of wave pools, and some really good ones at that. The wave garden, another wave pool, makes a wave any surfer would love to surf. It’s a performance wave that has lots of variety in the types of waves and sections that present themselves. The thing that sets the Kelly’s (Kelly Slater, the most accomplished surfer in the history of the sport) wave pool apart is that Kelly’s pool is actually the closest thing on earth to a perfect wave. Some waves in nature can be considered “perfect”, but Kelly’s is literal perfection, even to the point where he can alter the wave at his wish, making it perfect for everyone. Below is a video that breaks down what’s going on under the hood of this milestone for surfing.

Like stated in the video, does the search for the perfect wave end here? Just for the case of argument, here is the closest thing we have found to a perfect wave. Its in Africa, and requires a whole lot of prep work to get there. From flights to driving on dunes, all to arrive and potentially see the wrong tide or swell angle. This wave is as perfect as it is finicky. Even when it looks perfect, pros often admit its a lot harder, with underwater currents moving super fast, and the unpredictability of the wave breaking over sand.

This wave is the closest thing to perfection, and like stated above, hardly is ever perfect. This is also leaving out the fact it is only a left, where a regular footed surfer would maybe enjoy it less since he has to surf it backside. Kelly’s pool can go both ways (left and right), and literally comes down to a science.

Contrary to what you would believe, not everyone is stoked on the wave pool. Is it the perfect wave? Is it even a wave since it is not in the ocean? Lots of people are up in arms about the debate. Personally, I think anyone who is against it just is jealous they can’t surf it (like in the video earlier, it is a private property/prototype, and not open to the public). But, I have to say I somewhat agree. Since surfing at its finest is bonding with nature, would feel the same way coming out of an artificial barrel as we would a real one mother nature sent us? Only the people who have surfed it know the answer to this one, and most of them say it feels just as good. One thing that also had the surfing purists infuriated was that Kelly’s pool has replaced the Lower trestles contest in September on the 2018 WCT (World Championship Tour) present by the WSL (World Surf League.). Never should a wave pool replace the only surf contest surfed in America (it’s a world tour; Lower Trestles is located in San Clemente, CA; no other wave in the United States can support a world tour event).

This made many people angry, and many people began to say this:

(The person who said this, Noa Deane, faced heavy scrutiny and ended up apologizing for the statement.)

Kelly ran a test even earlier in 2017, and I would say the surf enthusiasts were split. Some thought it was an awesome event. Some thought it was boring, watching everybody surf the same wave. Nonetheless, the surfers in the event were stoked, and whether the public like the idea or not, everyone is going to be watching in September to see what unfolds on the artificial wave. It is such a perfect wave, it will be similar to slope style snowboarding, in which surfers can plan their run out ahead of time. This hyper reality is uncharted territory in the sport of surfing, so it will be interesting to see how it pans out.

Jbay Preview

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We have reached just about the halfway point of the 2019 WSL Championship tour, and we find our selves in South Africa. A place that reminds us of Kelly’s broken foot, devil-wind-groomed rights, and that time Mick beat down on a great white. All jokes aside, Jbay holds a spot as one of my favorite stops on the tour, one because it is just such a classic wave plus we also get to see the top 34 spread their arms out and really form out while also still being able to get shacked. While I would say it favors regular footers, It’s safe to say some of the goofies can get after it on the backhand. Let’s take a dive into some things to keep your eyes on during the waiting period.

The Ideal Conditions: 2 Very Different Possibilities

The best and most entertaining conditions would be 6-8 occ. 10ft with light offshories. This would ensure we see every bit of action we could get, from tubes to turns to punts. It also would be the most level playing field, since goofies could play to the advantage of the tighter arc on smaller waves while regulars would go forehand and read the tricky tubes a wee bit better. The converse, which is also awesome to watch, is close to maxed out devil wind jbay. With giant tubes and waves that test the top 34s abilities, this would also be a hoot to watch.

The favorites: The Top 5

While it might seem fairly obvious since they are “technically” the 5 best surfers in the world currently, these guys have been looking tack sharp and definitely can surf to the beat of Jbay. With Filipe being the winner the past two years, he obviously would be a safe bet. Kanoa showed us his rail prowess at Keramas, and has been riding that high since. He has a powerful rail game and if it is smaller can flair out in the air as well. Kolohe’s Mick-esque form and powerful build also lend to him being able to find success at this event. Jordy has put up huge numbers, and also is looking poised in the 4th place spot on the rankings. The one most likely to maybe lose early on would be Italo, strictly because he is a goofy foot and has been looking patchier this year (I am unsure if he is still repping the ankle brace as well).

The Dark Horses: Rcal, The GOAT, Avoca Jesus, Seabass

While goofy footers have not faired well as far as a victory at Jbay in quite some time, Ryan Callinan proved to us at bells that the backhand can do some damage in bigger more open canvas waves. After that performance and the amount of push he can get off his heelside, he is my goofy pick to gar far (sans Medina and Italo). You can never count out the GOAT, since he has done this here and has always had a liking to the large groomed walls. Expect him to be fired up, since his last time there was when he injured his foot. Wade Carmichael is a solid pick and more of a no brainer rather than a dark horse since he is a larger surfer and has a lethal rail game. His presence overall tends to slip under the radar and hence is why he might be considered not to be a threat. I expect him to go far, especially if it is big and burly. Finally, Seabass has yet to find his feet this year and I feel like maybe has something to prove. Bass has one of the most polished rail games, and is a frother so if it is on he will be chomping at the bit to blitz some lips. He could easily be a winner here, and would be awesome to see since he is sans sponsor.

Maybe Avoid: Most goofies, less fluid surfers

Most goofies will be at slight disadvantage especially if it is big devil wind jbay. While it is not impossible, we have not seen a goofy hoist the trophy in a while. There are some who can pull it off and like stated earlier, if it is smaller it will open up the door for some to use the tighter pocket to their advantage or launch some airs. Aside from the goofies, some regular foots that lack a fluid approach (it is hard to name some, but for instance maybe a Peterson Crisanto) to look a little shaky against some of the more rail oriented surfers that flock the tour. No knock to Peterson or any of the other people who could come to mind, but there are just some guys that link turns together in such a polished manner that even if the surfing is less powerful or technical, it will look better on the walled rights.

And that’s all he wrote. It will be interesting to see what mother nature has in store, in terms of waves but and also if the locals in the grey suits will be attempting to regulate. The waiting period is only a couple days away; so all we have to do is wait. It looks like it has been cooking for the warm ups.

The Perfect Summer Day

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The Perfect summer day

With the summer solstice recently passing and the beautiful days ahead of us in the months of July and August, I thought I’d share my secret recipe for a all killer no filler summer day. You probably could already guess some of the parts, but we are going to break it down from sunrise to sunset, and then some. Buckle up, let’s roll.

7AM

The timing on this one is tentative; if the waves are cooking it could be a little earlier. But factoring in all possible times I could wake up, I would say 7 o clock is the apex. Earlier and you might burn out during the day, and later you are just wasting away the day. While I don’t want to say my ideal summer day requires a hangover (because that sounds like signs of someone with a problem), it is always a little more fun reminiscing on the night before. Let’s say you went out and had a great time, and expected to unexplainably hungover, but came out unscathed and felt great the next morning. (If you are really hungover, check these tips.) Ideally, the next thing before immediately taking a dip would be acquiring some Joe. Most of the time, I make it at home, but if we were talking about the perfect day, I’d pick up an almond milk cappuccino from Vacancy Coffee. Great coffee a stone throw away from where I like to surf. Following after sucking down the nectar, it’s time to take a dip. The perfect situation is pumping toobies in some boardies. On a perfect day, this surf should cure any hangover left.

10AM

Post dip, its time to retreat back home and figure out the rest of the day. I’ll most likely just whip something up from my groceries for a brunch, but on occasion treat myself with something nice (probably a c’est si bon sandwich). After this we could be running it back for a second session if the waves are cooking or planning some sort of other outdoor activity. Most of the time it involves the beach, since it is so beautiful out this time of year. As the food settles, I get my scroll on and if it is Sunday I try and write something decent. On a perfect day, I write something good.

1PM

Now it’s time to hit the beach. While I am open to doing other things, it’s hard to argue against it. Maybe a skate or something we don’t do that often could substitute, but if I had to pick, we are hitting the beach. Ideally I’d be doing something that lets me tan but also not just be lying still, so maybe some bodysurfing or stand up boogie. I can’t think of the last time I went to the beach and didn’t try to catch a session, so boards are always at the camp. Now we just sit back and let the skin sizzle. On a perfect day, I don’t get burned.

4PM

Unless I am just locked at the beach, I either will return home and relax or try to go get a workout in. While it seems like this is a lot for one day, I’d rather always have something to do rather than thinking of things to do. It would definitely be a light workout, but it feels good to get a nice sweat especially if we hit it hard the night before. End it in the sauna and head on home. If no gym time is happening, I might lie in the hammock or rip some Skate 3 to pass the time. On a perfect day, I crush a workout AND have time to play some skate.

7PM

My favorite way to end the day is in the ocean. Nothing like surfing at sunset as the sun descends into the darkness. However, we have had ample beach time already this day, so I’d swap sunset surf with a sunset BBQ. After all this action throughout the day, I am going to need to refuel. While I sometimes just run it solo or with my roommates, I enjoy it most when we have a couple extras and just cook up a storm. Beers are optional, and I usually opt out depending on the amount of alcohol consumed over the weekend. On a perfect day, the chicken doesn’t get too crispy.

10PM

At this point I am either laying in bed on my laptop or fresh out the shower getting ready to start sipping. On a perfect day, I’ll take either option.