Tag: Surf

Living in the Paddle Battle Capital

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ABOVE: AN EXAMPLE OF PADDLE BATTLING AT IT’S APEX (AT LEAST IT IS FOR A LICK OF WORLD CLASS WAVES).

Southern California is a tropical paradise. Ok, tropical paradise might be a little bit of a stretch. But in my short life and sheltered viewpoints as far as travel and locations, California really has it all. Nice weather most of the time, fun surf, nice beaches, cute girls. I could go on and on, but I won’t. I have longed to live in California since I was a child. Sure, I might like the beaches back home in NJ more. And the pizza is not as good out here. Back home, Summer time was crowded and congested. Where I live, it is even worse. Southern California definitely has a crowd problem, both in and out of the water. Nothing grinds my gears more than trying to navigate an uber-crowded lineup or waiting 45 minutes to get into a bar just to order 2 drinks before it’s time to go home. Fun stuff. All this bitching and moaning aside, California for now has my heart, and it’s not too hard to see why. 

But let’s hone in real quick. If I had to have ONE major qualm with the golden state, it involves surfing. California single handedly has to be the paddle battle capital of America. I’m sure you make the argument that peak season on the north shore might give it a run for its money, but California 365 days out of the year has to have the most wave hungry surfers. In some instances I get it. I know that if I am going to surf a battlefield like Lowers or pumping 56th street, it would be cute to think I wouldn’t have to get in peoples space and take waves. I think that’s maybe where it starts: having to actually take waves in order to catch them when it’s crowded. I like to think I give people a decent amount of waves. And I don’t get many given back to me. On a rare occasion someone that isn’t my friend will chest pass me a wave. I always make it a point to thank that person afterwards, much like if someone gave you a free coffee or something like that. It’s just basic etiquette. When I am not catching waves and no one is giving any waves away, this is when it gets eggy. I think this sometimes brings out the absolute worst surfer in me and others. While I always am respectful and never burn or heavy back paddle people, sometimes I give out absolutely zero handouts and sweep up every wave that comes where I am the deepest (unless a friend is on the shoulder). 

Now I can recognize this and slow it down, but for the most part if I am being respectful I don’t see too much trouble in it. No one bitches at other people when they are catching a ton of waves, but for some reason I tend to cop it on the head pretty often. Certain places require this cutthroat mindset, as much as you dislike having to throw it on. The problem arises when people resort to shit etiquette to catch waves. Getting super close to someone while paddling for a wave, telling them to fuck off, or just blatantly burning someone is when it tends to cross the line. The best part: the people who resort to this definitely are in the bottom of the talent pool when it comes to ability. They can only catch waves by doing these strange actions. Or their uber-macho localism shines through and they just feel they have the right to deliver fades left and right. Luckily, it is not like every session we have to deal with this. But if the waves are good, the chances of a lineup altercation or getting torched increase exponentially. 

Even on the smallest and most dismal of surfs, I can find myself getting paddle battled to catch a two foot closeout. In these instances, we just need to lighten up and laugh a little. Nothing is better than really wanting to catch a wave (a shit one at that), making sure the person trying to shoulder hop sees you, and then that person lets out a sarcastic statement or still decides to go because maybe you’ve been getting a bunch of waves or they haven’t gotten one in 20 minutes. Often people like to say shit just for no reason or fade you just because fuck it. There are a lot of bad eggs in the California lineups. No matter how shit of a session I am having or how crowded it may be, I can proudly say I rarely fade people. 

Lowers is in a whole different universe in itself, like we touched upon earlier. People will do anything to get a wave out there. And I have been on the receiving end of a lot of these strange exchanges. In my mind, if I can’t get a wave the right way, without back paddling anyone or doing anything that would label me as cheap, then I might as well just not catch that wave. I have caught plenty of sets there without any foul play. It’s not the hardest thing to do. Unfortunately, a lot of other people do not feel this way. There are so many tactics and ways to appear like you are in the right, but at this point I just kick out. People really can get offended if you call them on their bullshit, even if they are blatantly in the wrong. Some people really just don’t get it. Or really think their ability or some other defining factor about them makes it ok to act up in the lineup. 

However, I think this passage might be painting the wrong picture. As my years of living in California lengthen, I tend to know the nooks and crannies to enjoy a peaceful, quiet session as long as it’s under head high. And there are plenty of times everyone is smiling and sharing waves. We just came off a pretty fun run of swell, and it seems like everyone has had their fair share of waves. With a long flat swell incoming and summer crowds still looming their ugly head, I am positive the next solid swell we will have plenty of  people that are going to be going mad to subdue the wave-stricken appetite of not surfing a head high wave for a while. If you find yourself tangled up in one of these strange altercations next time you are in the water, just shrug it off and keep surfing. Like I said in my last post, surfing is so fun. Don’t make it not so fun for the others around you. 

5 Current Clips to Froth On

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Can you believe it? Being quarantined? It seems like there are varying circumstances all over the United States, but this eerie cloud of isolation and just a weird feeling in the air is ever prevalent. We could be hanging inside for a while, so time might start to move in slow motion. A lot of us are in the same realm that getting exercise and being active every day is a day well spent. While being cooped up, we can use this spare time we find ourselves with finding new love for things we do daily and get new drive that you might not have had. One of the things that people could lose sometime soon is surfing, and while this sounds trivial to some others hold it in high regard. Obviously it is a tad bit selfish to tote an activity so highly, but a lot of people find solace in the sea. A ton of us long for our time spent in the ocean, and with building stress and lack of other things to do this is something we look forward to doing. 

Nothing gets you excited about surfing like a good surf clip. The crux of this though: most surf films can get us chomping at the bit to enter the oceans vortex, try and get as low to the water as possible, or as high above the lip as we can. A proper surf clip is something you typically don’t want to watch if you can’t surf. However, why not just build up all this froth and excitement, so when you get back to surfing you are absolutely tweaking to get back into the water. It could be tomorrow (watch any SoCal cam and it looks like business as usual) or a month away. Start getting excited, sooner or later we will be able to get back the thing that brings a smile to our face even on our darkest days.

So here they are, 5 relatively short clips that will surely get you licking your lips for some water time. While most are hi-fi performance hammers (guilty, as that is always what gets me the most psyched), it touches all facets of surfing, from tubes to turns to tail-high punts. 

2019. from Ryan Callinan on Vimeo.

Ryan Callinan is one of the most fun surfers to watch on the CT currently, and is madly underrated. From a polished and powerful backhand to the things he’s done on the forehand that are hard to comprehend, this clip showcases Ryan does have the complete package. Filmed over a year and in all different locations, this should get you excited to just surf. Sure, we all won’t look like Ryan, but we all can try. 

For What It’s Worth from Layne Stratton on Vimeo.

Cam Richards grew up in South Carolina and has quickly became a household name. With a crazy WOTW entry on a board shaped by his pops (that was well over 7’ tall), Cam has been touted as a pipe specialist. What some may not have known, is that Cam also has a crazy air game, from stylish straight airs to oops to backside spinny things. It’s always nice to watch someone that might have grown up surfing conditions you may have. Anything is possible with determination. Getting that wave that Cam got last winter and making every section, however, might take longer than you’d like (it’d most likely never happen). 

Everyone needs a little spice here and there to reignite the fire. While most will not be able to surf a 4’10” as fluidly as Asher, it may trigger some curiosity as to riding alternative shapes. Watch enough Asher, Ryan Burch, or Bryce Young, and you might just pull the trigger on a fish or an asymmetrical or something even weirder. New boards make you draw new lines, and while we all don’t live by fabled point breaks and all don’t get consistently fun peaky waves, there’s no harm in trying something new. You never know, maybe you were born to ride a 4’10” twin fin. 

Parker Coffin has a great Instagram if you want micro-doses of form and high flying airs to live in your feed. From a tack sharp backside that found it’s stride from surfing the Queen of the Coast to huge laybacks, Parker surfs fast. If you are a goofy foot, nothing is more fun than watching Parker tee off on a roping Rincon right, carefully cutting back and placing powerful punches. Parker gathered the clips  and deemed it as a “surf bender”, something which just about everyone wishes they could be on the path to. Nothing is better than consistently surfing, because on one hand it keeps you happy, and on the other hand you get to sharpen your craft. 

No matter what boards you like to surf, or who your favorite surfer is, you’d most likely be labeled as a kook if you had beef with JJFs rail game (or any aspect of his surfing). Rewind back to his Margies performance or watch some clips of him at rock piles and Haleiwa and you’ll understand. John draws unique lines and holds his turns much longer than most, giving pleasurable viewing and often (attempted) replicas of his surfing. You’ll need a big canvas if you want to draw the lines anything remotely similar to johns, so you might need to keep this one on ice until the waves get bigger than you are tall. 

Coffee Climates in Chronological order

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I love coffee. Every morning, I wake up and start prepping the brew. French press or moka pot? I make a decision and then grind some beans in accordance. During the workweek, I always make the cup at home. It’s too early and there is too little time to stop somewhere and come back home for breakfast. When the weekend hits, i try to take advantage of treating myself to a cup on the road. Cheap or expensive. Potent or flavorful. Hot or iced. For me, there is a time for every type of coffee, and even a place sometimes. Here is the method to my madness for ordering some joe outside of your home.

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Drip coffee

This is definitely the go to upon awakening. I still typically I tend to brew at home to save some money and slow the morning down a little if I am drinking drip, but every now and then I hop in the car and drive for a cup. The time I am drinking a drip coffee is always in the morning, the earlier the better. The drip coffee tastes best extra hot, slowly helping wake you up while making you feel warm and fuzzy inside. Drip coffee for me pairs well with a drive: whether it is an early AM road trip or a morning surf check that requires multiple stops. You can slam it pre-session, or save half for the post session. Drip coffee also taste great nuzzled under your covers on your laptop. You can even make it last all morning (unfortunately for me, it never seems too) and can even turn iced if you make it back home with any leftover. A win win win situation.

Almond Cappuccino

The cappuccino is a kick-starter. Packaged in a nice small container and typically not aggressively hot, for me the capp is a grab and go coffee ready for maximum caffeine in a minimum amount of time. I really love the taste of espresso: the dark and smoky taste is delicious, and the aromas it gives off tickles the nose. A good cappuccino is hard to drink slowly. I typically drink mine way too fast because I love them on the warmer side. This is a great drink to grab, park, and paddle out. Or grab and get after it. Also, if you are feeling a little on the slower side, this is a better fix than drip coffee. Less fluids jumping and twisting in your stomach. And you also can drink some water after rather than hoping right out. I’ve had all sorts of capps: whole milk, half and half, almond and oat. I prefer almond at this point. Oat is nice too though. The almond capp is perfect for when that morning cup just didn’t cut it for you.

Iced Americano

Unless I wake up incredibly dehydrated, I can’t really drink iced coffee early in the morning. Even pre-Coachella in 90-degree desert weather, I tend to still like to sip a warm beverage while waking up. It helps you ease into your day. The iced coffee comes in the afternoon. For a while I was keen on just an iced coffee or a cold brew. But as of late, an iced Americano has been my play for a nice afternoon buzz. The typically are a little cheaper than cold brew, and give you the bitter and deep taste of espresso over ice. Dare to get a double and you really can start bouncing off the walls. Drink it black to soak up the entire flavor or add a splash of dairy to lighten the color and taste. A little sugar never hurt in this caffeine cocktail either. I am happy I started getting this classic drink, or else I’d be stuck in the cold brew rut. This is perfect for an afternoon that is jammed packed or is going to require activity late in the day.

Iced Flavored Coffee

This is the mid day pick-me-up, when you have little responsibility or the vibe for the day is lounging. I find these drinks perfect for a beach day or a relaxing day at home, when time goes by slowly. They usually aren’t as caffeinated, which sometimes is what you are looking for. The iced flavored coffee is vague, but refers to any flavored drink which has just as much sweet to it as coffee. The really delicious, less potent potions that differ from place to place. Whether it is lavender cold brew, iced maple latte, a dirty chai latte, or anything under the sun, these drinks are meant to spoil you. Nothing is sweeter than sipping on a delicious coffee that doesn’t make you go nuts or start tweaking. Like I said, these are the drinks you sip while tanning. For taking a stroll or bike rides around town. Just the perfect drink for a do nothing day. Treat yourself. I also tend to drink this drinks more sparingly as they usually come with a larger price tag. If I were to pick this as my go to afternoon drink, my productivity would take a hit and so would my bank account. But every now and then, it just feels right.

 

 

Jbay Preview

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We have reached just about the halfway point of the 2019 WSL Championship tour, and we find our selves in South Africa. A place that reminds us of Kelly’s broken foot, devil-wind-groomed rights, and that time Mick beat down on a great white. All jokes aside, Jbay holds a spot as one of my favorite stops on the tour, one because it is just such a classic wave plus we also get to see the top 34 spread their arms out and really form out while also still being able to get shacked. While I would say it favors regular footers, It’s safe to say some of the goofies can get after it on the backhand. Let’s take a dive into some things to keep your eyes on during the waiting period.

The Ideal Conditions: 2 Very Different Possibilities

The best and most entertaining conditions would be 6-8 occ. 10ft with light offshories. This would ensure we see every bit of action we could get, from tubes to turns to punts. It also would be the most level playing field, since goofies could play to the advantage of the tighter arc on smaller waves while regulars would go forehand and read the tricky tubes a wee bit better. The converse, which is also awesome to watch, is close to maxed out devil wind jbay. With giant tubes and waves that test the top 34s abilities, this would also be a hoot to watch.

The favorites: The Top 5

While it might seem fairly obvious since they are “technically” the 5 best surfers in the world currently, these guys have been looking tack sharp and definitely can surf to the beat of Jbay. With Filipe being the winner the past two years, he obviously would be a safe bet. Kanoa showed us his rail prowess at Keramas, and has been riding that high since. He has a powerful rail game and if it is smaller can flair out in the air as well. Kolohe’s Mick-esque form and powerful build also lend to him being able to find success at this event. Jordy has put up huge numbers, and also is looking poised in the 4th place spot on the rankings. The one most likely to maybe lose early on would be Italo, strictly because he is a goofy foot and has been looking patchier this year (I am unsure if he is still repping the ankle brace as well).

The Dark Horses: Rcal, The GOAT, Avoca Jesus, Seabass

While goofy footers have not faired well as far as a victory at Jbay in quite some time, Ryan Callinan proved to us at bells that the backhand can do some damage in bigger more open canvas waves. After that performance and the amount of push he can get off his heelside, he is my goofy pick to gar far (sans Medina and Italo). You can never count out the GOAT, since he has done this here and has always had a liking to the large groomed walls. Expect him to be fired up, since his last time there was when he injured his foot. Wade Carmichael is a solid pick and more of a no brainer rather than a dark horse since he is a larger surfer and has a lethal rail game. His presence overall tends to slip under the radar and hence is why he might be considered not to be a threat. I expect him to go far, especially if it is big and burly. Finally, Seabass has yet to find his feet this year and I feel like maybe has something to prove. Bass has one of the most polished rail games, and is a frother so if it is on he will be chomping at the bit to blitz some lips. He could easily be a winner here, and would be awesome to see since he is sans sponsor.

Maybe Avoid: Most goofies, less fluid surfers

Most goofies will be at slight disadvantage especially if it is big devil wind jbay. While it is not impossible, we have not seen a goofy hoist the trophy in a while. There are some who can pull it off and like stated earlier, if it is smaller it will open up the door for some to use the tighter pocket to their advantage or launch some airs. Aside from the goofies, some regular foots that lack a fluid approach (it is hard to name some, but for instance maybe a Peterson Crisanto) to look a little shaky against some of the more rail oriented surfers that flock the tour. No knock to Peterson or any of the other people who could come to mind, but there are just some guys that link turns together in such a polished manner that even if the surfing is less powerful or technical, it will look better on the walled rights.

And that’s all he wrote. It will be interesting to see what mother nature has in store, in terms of waves but and also if the locals in the grey suits will be attempting to regulate. The waiting period is only a couple days away; so all we have to do is wait. It looks like it has been cooking for the warm ups.

Film Flash(come)back

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After a fun night out with some friends and waking up later than usual, I was faced this morning with a challenge: I had no post written up for today and did not really have any idea what this post should be about. There was a surf related post as well as music related one floating around in my head, but they seemed a little too easy. I rolled around in bed until I thought going for surf would kick start the day and maybe something would come to me in the water. All morning before the surf I heavily contemplated not doing one today, or posting like a sentence as a gag. But the show must go on. Here we are.

I have a film camera, and I definitely don’t use it nearly enough. I used to try to bring it a lot of places, but it is a little on the larger/heavier side, so it usually just looks like a chore rather than an ancient time freezer. However, the last two years of high school I had it in my backseat and whenever I remembered to capture the moment, I did. A lot of shitty photos came out of this, but there are definitely some I am proud of. And now you might be able to see where I am going with this.

Above is the best picture I have ever captured on my film camera. I look at it and can immediately put myself in the same spot I stood capturing it. This is a rather small day at home surf check. When it looks perfect for an ant to get barreled. Ankle high and cooking. This photo really just tells the story of my hometown Lavallette. From the days exactly like this were you haven’t surfed in a month to the days were this wave is scaled up to a 6 footer and you just have yourself a day.

The best part is even if it was cranking surf; the scene would remain the same. And this is the telling aspect. Home in the off-season is so quiet and tranquil and often you can wander in the sand without seeing a soul. Very different to the California living and I enthralled in currently.

I can’t really get too technical with the shot itself, but the contrasting blues in the sky and the fact the bench is in the corner with no one sitting on it makes the photo seem like I knew what I was doing. A perfect right and left reel away, unridden since the only thing that could ride that wave are fish. I have surfed at this beach for all of my life, and is pretty close to a second home during the summer months. My families surf shop is right down the street. You could blindfold me and I could probably make it from the shop to the beach.

While I know this post is admittedly rushed and more filler than killer, I hope it can spark an interest again in lugging around the camera and capturing some moments.