Surfing is SO fun.
You’d think for how much I surf, I would write about it so much more. But if you breeze through this blog’s past, there aren’t a ton about it. There are a handful of ones that are reposts of some of my academic work, which I leaned on surfing as the subject matter like a crutch. Sure, I had a lot of classes where surfing couldn’t fit the subject matter or examples. But any class where I could take the bulk of the writing any direction, I flung it at surfing. It’s so easy to write about what you know. And it’s easy to write about something you do so often. Like for me specifically, I could write about drinking coffee, listening to music, etc. for hours easily. Just everyday shit.
So here I am, penning a piece about surfing because it’s just been so fun. Surfing is always fun, but sub par conditions, bad weather, or surfing solo a bunch can make it harder to have a ton of fun. But right now that definitely doesn’t apply. The water is warm, and can be enjoyed in boardies or a spring suit. This already makes the average surfer stoked. Add in nice weather, decent conditions, and a positive attitude and you can have a ball. I’m getting to surf with a ton of my friends, and getting to see stoked faces more and more. Everyone just seems happier in Newport when there’s swell around. I could be wrong, but I like to think it’s true. There’s always one or two sour apples out there, but that’s just California.
Surfing is a ton of fun because you can ride different boards to experience a completely different ride. From as simple as coming off a log to your first shortboard or jumping from different styles of board, the difference in ride can bring a smile to your face. You can try and emulate your favorite surfer, or work on different parts of your surfing. And all this time it’s any level. I know because a ton of my friends caught the bug, and are frothing even harder than me to catch a session. Hearing their stories get me stoked and chomping at the bit to get some water time. Whether it’s them wanting to switch up the ride or me jumping from fish to shortboard to soft top, there are an array of possibilities.
A great example of using different paint brushes on a canvas.
Surfing is so fun to watch. Whether on a computer screen or in the lineup. Finding myself surfing good waves and specifically Lowers means the sideline show is almost as fun as the main event. Seeing your buddy get a sick one or cheering on a random person is another way to enjoy it. Sometimes the most fun sessions might be because of the company you are with, not so much the wave quality. In the opposite sense, sometimes there is nothing better than surfing alone. It just feels right sometimes. Surfing alone in a crowded zone sucks, but surfing with not many others around and having your own little chip peak is a sure-fire way to crack a smile. It’s when the euphoric feeling of surfing is most prevalent. Just you and the ocean, and if you manage to fit into a vortex at this moment, you might think you are dreaming.
I think the final reason surfing is so fun is the same reason surfing can be so torturous. Torturous might be a strong word, but nothing can eat away at you (or maybe this is just me) like blowing a good one or just having a shit surf. The same way having a great surf can put you way up, this can put you way down. The learning curve is the final reason surfing is so fun. Nothing is more exciting than learning something new or performing something you are proud of. Conditions pending, you can always take a new approach or learn new techniques while you are surfing. There is an infinite learning curve, and factoring in equipment changes really makes the possibilities endless. With that being said, once you know what a good wave feels like or how a good turn feels, every time you come up short can slowly eat away at you.
In the long run, the best way to enjoy surfing is to be thankful you can do it (this is in reference to when you are having a shocker or just not surfing as good as you’d like to). Some people live in less wave-rich spots, some can only get out on the weekends, some don’t live close to the beach at all. No matter how shit of a surf you have, thinking about just getting in the water and enjoying nature in its purest form is an easy way to turn that frown upside down. Take it from me, I find myself having to do this pretty often (unfortunately). But not recently. There is a tribe of us that is only growing stronger and stronger. Surfing has reached peak popularity, and more and more people frequent the beach for a quick pre-work surf. While sometimes this drives us crazy, seeing others enjoy the fruits of the ocean and being able to share moments with them is something special. Ride something different. Draw new lines on the wave. Work on technique. Just got surf. Good waves or bad waves. Big waves or small waves. Just go have fun, because surfing is so fun.